Given the wide range of brands, models, and customization options currently available on the market, it can be extremely difficult to find the right model; however, the best way to find the perfect pointe shoes is to get to know your foot.
The first thing to do is define the Box type: by looking at the images and identifying which shape most closely resembles your own, you can start to get a clearer idea of the pointe shoe that suits you best.
Step 1 - Toe box geometry
Every pointe shoe maker builds models based on at least one of the three main toe box shapes:
Tapered: Ideal for feet with tapered, descending toes (Egyptian foot).
Slightly Tapered: A versatile shape for feet with medium toe lengths.
Square: Designed for feet with toes of similar length (Roman or Greek foot).
Step 2 - Set the vamp height
To determine the most suitable vamp height for your foot, consider the following:
Toe length: Long toes generally call for higher vamps to keep the foot from "popping out" of the shoe.
Arch flexibility: A very mobile arch needs more front support to avoid pitching too far forward.
Compressibility level: Indicates how much the metatarsals compress when the foot is under load.
Foot width: A wide or narrow forefoot influences the satin tension and the vamp's support.
Phase 3 - Correlation between toe length and vamp
Toe proportions determine the ideal vamp height to ensure proper containment:
Short toes: Generally require a low vamp to allow proper foot articulation.
Medium toes: Offer more versatility; choose based on the desired feeling of support.
Long toes: Need a high vamp to prevent the foot from sliding too far forward or "coming out" of the shoe.
Phase 4 - The influence of instep flexibility
The arch determines how easily you reach "over pointe" and calls for different levels of support:
Stiff instep: Prefers a low vamp. One that’s too high would create excessive resistance, hindering a proper rise onto pointe.
Moderately flexible arch: Allows a broader range of choices, to be assessed in combination with the box shape and foot strength.
Very flexible instep: Requires a high (long) vamp. This extra support is essential to "rein in" the foot, preventing it from collapsing too far forward and ensuring stability inside the shoe.